things you’ll need: a few ears of corn (kernels and cobs), leeks (or shallots), arborio rice, white wine (or vinegar or vermouth), corn stock* or boxed stock, a dairy to finish (parmesan, mascarpone, soft cheese like chevre, or whatever vegan substitute), butter/olive oil, salt, pepper, and a good friend.
*(corn cobs, onion, dark green tops of the leeks, garlic, carrot, celery, yellow pepper, bay leaf, peppercorn, parsley, and/or whatever flavors you want in there)
There are a lot of variations, but a stock, frozen corn, and a standard risotto build (allium, acid, rice, liquid, vegetable, parm) with no additional tricks will still be very tasty. I made corn stock because it changed the whole Corn Chowder game, used leeks, and finished with an amazing corn liquid as suggested by America’s Test Kitchen (here’s one adapted and outside the paywall). NYTCooking suggests folding in whipped heavy cream. The Kitchn suggests tossing stripped cobs in with regular stock and using dry vermouth. Like friendships, this risotto can be simple or deeply complicated.
Incidentally gluten-free, vegetarian, easily vegan with dairy subs (for instance, 1/4 - 1/2 cup of nutritional yeast in place of parm).
Chapter 227
You have lost friends. You meet a lot of people and sometimes you hit it off. Some of those relationships become inextricable, even taken for granted. Some end in a blaze of heartbreak and leave deep empties that still ache before it rains or however often you remember.
Others are like that left sock that falls away into the ether when you do laundry. You may not even notice its absence until you find its match and wonder what ever happened.
Maybe it was once amongst your favorite socks, even if it was always too tight and left its banded mark on your skin every time you donned it. Maybe it had the habit of slipping off your heel and bunching itself beneath the arch of your very busy foot. The sock never fit you right but you loved it, despite your discomfort.
If you are honest, there were a lot of socks in your drawer that should have been discarded long before you finally let them go. Maybe, in some ways, you were relieved to find yourself free of something so ill-fitting. Maybe you often thought about it and kept that right sock around, hoping that the pair would be whole again. Maybe you are surprised by how quickly you forgot it.
Of course, the left sock doesn’t share your experience. It has been lost to whatever dark corner of the world, feeling quite abandoned by you. Although you may have a drawer full of socks, it had you too.
One day you find yourself cleaning a long-neglected spot between things and happen upon this long-lost sock. It makes you sad to see something so treasured now tattered and caked in your indifference. Guilt and longing descend upon you and you wish you’d been more honest. You know that this isn’t about the sock, but the feelings swell just the same.
Friendships require care. They don’t all fit right and sometimes discarding them is the proper choice, but some of the losses could have been avoided with a little honesty and care.
Maybe this is what puts you in the mind to invite a friend over for risotto. Maybe you think that nursing a pan of rice into its delicious potential might abate the feeling of loss that sits in your chest. Maybe you just miss your friend and have too much corn and are tired of metaphors and deriving meaning from a sock that made you a little sad.
Take the time to make a corn stock by stripping the ears and gently boiling the cobs with the end of an onion, the green tops of your leeks, bay leaf, peppercorn, garlic/shallot, the two carrots, a few pale ribs of the celery’s heart, and the one yellow pepper withering in the crisper. Throw in parsley or other herbs wilting from disuse. When it tastes delicious, strain and finish with salt. Once cool enough, squeeze any liquid from the cobs to ensure maximum corniness.
Or don’t and just bring 6-8 cups of stock to a simmer and toss a few stripped cobs into the pot, if you have them.
Take one cob’s worth of corn (or 1 cup) and purée it with ½ of hot water. Strain the liquids from the solids, using the back of a spatula/spoon to press as much liquid out as possible. Discard solids and set the liquid aside or skip this step entirely.
Gently sauté the thoroughly cleaned tender white/light green parts of 2 medium/smallish leeks with salt and butter on medium heat, taking the time to let your chopped leeks wilt and sweeten without browning.
Turn up the heat and add a cup of rice, stirring until well coated and the leeks lightly brown the pan. Add half a cup of white wine, deglaze, and stir until absorbed. Begin the process of ladling in stock, stirring/simmering until absorbed, and repeat.
When the rice is still a little toothsome (only a tiny semi-hard spot remaining at the center and the rest is mostly gummy but not mush), stir in your reserved corn kernels and, if you made it, the super corny corn juice pressed from the purée.
Cook until the corn is bright and the texture is right. When you pull a spatula through the center, the risotto should lusciously ooze back in to fill the space. Finish with parmesan, whipped heavy cream, soft chevre, mascarpone, crème fraîche, nutritional yeast, or whatever you chose.
Serve immediately. Tend to your friendship as you feed your friend. Say what needs saying, especially if that’s “I love you” but even more if it’s “you hurt me” or “I’ve been mad” or whatever you never talked about that needed care.
Tomorrow, go through your socks and make the choice to let the ill-fitting pairs go.
More Risottos:
Asparagus Risotto: things not to cook in the sweltering heat but this asparagus isn’t going to eat itself
Butternut Squash Risotto: sit and stir while you think about the year you’ve survived and all the light yet to come
Carrot and Pea Risotto: stay curious. stay excited. that’s where all the fun stuff comes from
Lemony Pea and Leek Risotto: not quite as good as a vacation, but still deeply satisfying
More stuff to do with corn:
Zucchini and Corn Arrabbiata with Burrata: it’s vegetarian and gluten-free without even trying. stop trying so hard.
Corn and Tomato Salad (with many options): an easy decision when other decisions are hard
Corn Chowder That Isn’t Gloppy: perfectly boring unlike everything else that is happening every day
Corn, Black Bean, and Avocado Tacos with Lime Crema: take a break from arguing with racist white ladies on the internet and eat an actual meal
Zucchini, Corn, and Spinach Frittata with Port Salut: yooooooooo, that’s some good shit
Hey friends! I made an introduction thread where you can stop by and say hello!
I’d love to get to know you better.
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